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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.